Showing posts with label Bettie Page. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bettie Page. Show all posts

Friday, 14 April 2017

The Hidden Pin Up #3 - Girly Magazines and the Black Cheesecake

A model on the cover of a girly magazine circa 1965 (see more @gemma_parker_artist)

In this third post exploring the history of the black Pin Up I'm going to be looking at the classic Pin Up model. The girl commonly referred to as 'cheesecake'. 

She's flirty and sexy but never overtly so and her brand of sex is only just PG by today's standards, but in her time (the golden years falling between 1930's-1960's) the Pin Up was as sexy as you could get without going 'under the counter'.

Girly magazines were the place to find pin ups and as American culture then, as now, was predominantly white it follows that so was the Pin Up. However, publishers soon caught on that there was a huge untapped market for black bombshells. Yes, black models occasionally appeared in mainstream white publications, but it was rare, and they were often typecast into the well used (and previously discussed) widely acceptable ideas of the 'Savage woman'.


Alongside the issues of 'Flirt' 'Wink' and 'Beauty Parade' came magazines that catered to African-American readers like 'Jive' 'Sepia' and 'Ebony'. Before we even take a look at the pin ups in these publications it's interesting to note the titles. Unlike the publications targeted at the white American male which made sideways references to the girly pictures inside, the black counterparts use entirely black references, not only setting them apart but also claiming those descriptive words for themselves. 'Jet' Magazine may be one exception to this rule because although appearing to make use of the colour black in it's title, it's founder John J Johnson stated that it was called Jet because, "In the world today everything is moving along at a faster clip. There is more news and far less time to read it."





It's also evident that 'Jet' took on some weightier issues regarding race than the typical girly mag. During it's early years the magazine covered the Civil Rights Movement and Martin Luther King and tackled ideas that affected the African-American population of the time. 

The Pin Ups in the magazines had a different portrayal too. Instead of play acting and goofing around with black stereotypes they posed as straight forward pin up models, women who were celebrated for their beauty, not the titillating idea associated with the colour of their skin.



After the revolution of Playboy magazine in 1953 there was a gap for a more up market and intellectual 'mens' magazine aimed at the African-American male. Along came 'Duke Magazine'. First published in 1957 Duke's centrefolds were called 'Duchess of the month' and elevated the model from girl next door to goddess.


Compare this image with the previous photo above of Evelyn Pitcher doing her 'Devil dance' and its clear that this Pin Up's sexual allure is being taken seriously. It is a sad yet interesting fact that the black Pin Up was mostly only seen as a real woman with real sensuality by her black audience

Moving forward to modern times, the Pin Up is here to stay. The vintage Pin Up aesthetic wavered during the 70's through to the 90's, then somewhere around the early 2000's she made a come back. With burlesque nights and vintage fairs now a regular occurrence, where is the black Pin Up now?

She's alive and well in contemporary music videos, and in a twist of post modernism you can find Beyonce morphing into Bettie Page in her video for 'Why Don't You Love Me'. It stands out to me that things seem to have gone full circle in this instance. In my first post in this series I talked about how the mainstream white pin up would sometimes appropriate the garb of another culture, yet the true pin ups from those cultures remained unseen. Here, Beyonce dons the garb of a popular white pin up as if she is just another trend to play with. 

Also unlike previous black performers and models, who took on a racial stereotype which hid their true identity, with Beyonce her donning of a white cultural stereotype only serves to enrich and empower her individuality.

Beyonce is in the lucky position to do all this thanks to her black Pin Up siblings from the past who paved the rocky and uneven path that helped lead to the modern image of a strong powerful black woman. Thanks to their struggles and hard work she can now claim to be 'Queen B' and have the freedom own her sexuality and project it in any way she chooses. 




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Before I end this post, I'd like to mention here some of the fabulous modern black Pin Ups who work in the industry and take inspiration from the past. These are all gorgeous women who claim their black heritage and the Pin Up aesthetic to create beautiful images and performances.

 
Coco Deville

Angelique Noire

Perle Noire

Jeez Loueez

Kristina Paulk

...and there are MANY more!

Join me next time when I take a look and the world of Pin Up illustrations and how the black Pin Up features...or does she?

Monday, 19 October 2009

The Agony and the Ecstacy


Bitch! Paris, Ellen Von Unwerth 2007

I have a couple of things to share this week; Firstly Ellen Von Unwerth, who I featured in a post a few weeks back is now exhibiting in London with a show called 'Fraulein'. The model turned photographer has been creating provocative sexually charged images for 15 years and this show highlights some of her favourite pieces from over that time. I wish I could see the work while it's up!

Ellen Von Unwerth's 'Fraulein'

Michael Hoppen Gallery London
Until 28th November 2009


Secondly and somewhat bizzarely I noticed a strange mix of religious iconography and sensuality this morning; My studio is situated opposite Salford Cathedral where the relics of St Therese of Lisieux were recently displayed as part of their journey to religious sites around the world.

I've always meant to pop into the cathedral as it is very impressive from the outside and I like visiting old churches etc as I like the architecture and atmosphere. The Cathedral still has lots of images of St Therese including banners, one of which had this image and tagline printed on it:



I do not regret having surrendered myself to Love

It struck me that this was an interesting choice of words to put with a picture that showed a woman who looks like she could be;
A. in religious rapture
B. in sensual rapture

C. asleep

D. dead.

There are so many layers of meaning between the image and the text. It really made me think about how interpretations of spirituality and sensuality have been mixed together over time, almost as if they could be one and the same? (incidentally, she is dead in this photo! but I didn't know that until I looked it up)
Here are some other examples of classic sensual religious iconography:


The ecstasy of St Teresa by Bernini 1647 -52


'Ecstase', Pierre and Gilles 2002

For an interesting article about Pierre and Gilles click HERE.

Another way of exploring the link would be to see what happens when you place the words spoken by St Therese alongside other equally evocative images:



I do not regret having surrendered myself to Love

Which kind of brings me back to the image by Ellen Von Unwerth which you can see at the top of the post...

Tuesday, 16 December 2008

Private View tomorrow!



I'm off to Sunderland again tomorrow for the private view of the exhibition in Sunniside marking the end of my burlesque art residency. Here's a little bit about the show!

Gemma along with others have created overblown burlesque characters taking inspiration from the 1861 census to bring some of Sunnisde's rich history back to life

Directed by Gemma and working with Art-wave, local artists and Sunderland University students the project 'What do you think you're looking at... The Sunniside of burlesque' is a collaborative work designed to highlight one of Sunderland's most overlooked areas currently undergoing a major redevelopment including the building of multi million pound art venue The Place.


A saucy dressmaker with a dark secret (that's me!), a radical freethinking minister, a French shipbroker, and a gothic widow in all her mournful glory all star in this provocatice and unique exhibition along with a selection of Gemma's burlesque paintings.

Tomorrow is the exhibiton's last day so if you're in the area please get down to see it before it ends! We will be having a live V.J set about the work and I will be in my character's costume, here's a sneaky peek of what to expect;



Photograph by Photogracky

Private view is 7-9pm and people are encouraged to dress the part when they come along, burlesque, vintage, glamour, Victoriana you name it! Really hope to see you there!


On other subjects; my current painting is coming along well, but slower than usual as I haven't had much time to spend on it. I've also had a bit of a to-do with the lack of natural light at this time of year, but on the whole the work is almost finished and should be completed in my next session at the studio



I just need to finish painting the purple ribbon and fill in her hair. I'm also working on the right upper arm and elbow which is being a bit of a pain as the fixative I used for the gold leaf bled through the taped off area and wont take paint well. In fact every time I add paint it actually take off the paint I already applied. Has anyone got any suggestions? This is my first outing with gold leaf on a painting and I'm learning how to deal with it as I go.

Also in my last posting I told of the sad passing of Pin-up Queen Bettie Page. I thought it was only fitting to mention again the woman who inspired generations. This fabulous interview is titled 'Her life in her OWN words' enjoy;



Friday, 12 December 2008

Bettie Page passes away

I've just found out that fifities pin-up and fetish model Bettie Page passed away last night at the age of 85. This is truely the passing of a great 20th Century icon.

I can't explain how inspirational she has become to people around the world, not only for her style but for her sexy poses that caused an outcry back in the day. Although I knew she was getting on in years I'm stil shocked that this legend has actually gone and I know for a fact we will never she such a unique personality in popular culture again.

I love Bettie because she celebrated her femininity unashamedly. As she put it:

"God approves of nudity. Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden, they were naked as jaybirds."